(image, Elizabeth Taylor Barbie)
Perfumers Clement Gavarry and Pascal Gaurin.
I’ve found the Tom Ford perfume that smells like I had expected the line to smell. Black Violet is perfumey, plasticky, a bit harsh.
The topnotes are intense and show off the construction of the perfume. It doesn’t have the kitchen sink thrown in, but short of that, it’s a very thorough perfume. It’s a fruity, woody floral, but it’s just so full. It as if Ford had a complete woody-floral, and added fruit, making it 150% full. It’s unpleasantly full to my nose, but admittedly, this sort of perfume (woody/floral, chemical/sweet) doesn’t appeal to me.
The drydown was a gratfying surprise. After the 150% top, which transitions to a sour, starchy potato-like set of notes, the basenotes are creamy/woody/musky and make a nice match to the remaining violet note. The violet note of the top of the fragrance is exciting if you’re a violet fan. It balances plastic and fruit and has a candied feel. The violet of the drydown has lost its manic tone, but remains the leading tone of the perfume.