Perfumer Dominique Ropion
Soir de Lune is a throwback to a genre whose heyday was the 1970s-1980s: the heavy rose chypre. Maybe it’s a tribute, maybe it’s an attempt to revive a faded genre, but it lands squarely in the company of Ungaro’s Diva, Sherrer’s Scherrer, Lauder’s Knowing, even Paloma Picasso’s Paloma.
It is as substantial as the others in the genre, but not as pleasing. It comes off as strong but simple, blanketing but not shadowy like the best of the rose chypres. I can’t actually say the balances are entirely off, but they aren’t inspired. The moss seems forceful but not deep. The citrus topnotes don’t lead into the rest of the perfume. The spices don’t lend richness. The rose is…well, it’s there.
Soir de Lune doesn’t reach the heights of the genre that its predecessors did. Perhaps its failings are due to the restrictions on ingredients that made the older rose chypres so robust and full. Fortunately, the chypre genre is forgiving, and while not breathtaking, Soir de Lune is not unattractive from any angle.