Perfumer Aurélien Guichard
A scenario popped into my head the moment I smelled Notes. Aurélien Guichard made a flanker of Jean Paul Gautier le Male called le Male Terrible. Piguet’s Notes could very easily have been his first draft, returned by the client for being too similar to the original.
I haven’t smelled all of the new Robert Piguet line, but having both Calypso and Notes in the same line seems a mistake. Although they don’t smell particularly alike, the similarity of their construction is close enough that they fill the same slot, and neither is a stellar perfume. Calypso is a 21st-century Cool Water and Notes is a spin on Jean Paul Gautier’s le Male.
The new Robert Piguet line seems intended for a younger, less perfume-experienced buyer than their Futur and Fracas buyers. Oddly for Aurélien Guichard, a technical master with a particular proficiency in balancing linear and traditional forms, Notes and Calypso both come off as rather monophonic. It’s possible that the perfumer aimed low and hit lower still, hoping for the perfume equivalent of a catchy pop song, but winding up with a jingle.