Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai
I wasn’t expecting armpit-musk from Patricia de Nicolai. For that I look elsewhere. I might have been expecting boozy-berry-sweet. As it turns out I got neither. Musc Intense is as much a white floral as it is a musk. It starts with snappy florals, starched rather than lush. Rosy, yet white. There’s a feel of alcohol, but not ‘liqueur’. More like slivovitz than creme de cassis.
Musc Intense grows drier and crisper. Then it ignites. The heartnotes and drydown have the feel of flowers drying before your eyes. The crispness becomes brightness, the brightness grows glaring and in the end, Musc Intense has a cold-flame feel akin to Estée Lauder White Linen. Where White Linen’s drydown reveals a warmed cheek of musky rose, Musc Intense stays blue-flame cold. This glaring tone suggests the corrosive feel of powdered laundry soap, but it does so with a wink. The implication of the cheap side of musk along with double-distilled flowers shows the humor of Musc Intense. It is simultaneously chic and cheeky.
Patricia de Nicolai is recognized for her taste and refinement. Kudos to her for spending her style-capital on a cocky and sassy yet modish little number like Musc Intense.