Parfums de Nicolai Fig Tea, 2007

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Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai

Fig-Tea is a an eau fraiche and should be used cologne-style in great bold splashes. It isn’t ethereal. In fact it’s a bit loud up front, but it fades very quickly and doesn’t last a whit. Fairly quickly it trades freshness for sweetness, winding up with more sugar than flavor.

The eponymous tea note would be better called a tisane. There’s more licorice than tea, and while the note does sweeten the fig substantially, it also keeps it cool, suggesting summer use and the sweet tea of the American South. There is an interesting similarity to Aurelian Guichard’s Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella for Guerlain. The floral/anise tune common to each takes different paths, though. Rather than Fig-Tea’s sweeter and fruitier turn, Anisia Bella starts with more complexity (I know, surprising for an Aqua Allegoria) and grows cooler, more powdery over time.


(image source Ella Hoy)


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