(image Peter Marino by Douglas Friedman)
Perfumer not cited at LM Parfums website.
The trend toward dense, smoky-woody perfumes is not particularly new. Nasomatto Black Afgano was an early example and many perfumes followed its blueprint closely. The trend has been given new life by the abundance of synth-oud accords. Hard Leather smells like a hopped-up version of the oud accords I’ve smelled in many recent perfumes. Imbalance and the extrait concentration suggest that quantity was used to define quality. Early niche models of the smoky, tarry, vanillic perfumes such as Lonestar Memories or Patchouli 24 are as strong as Hard Leather but are rich and nuanced.
The durable, dry, woody aromachems that I assume form the shape of Hard Leather are forceful and need a judicious hand to prevent them from becoming the bull in the perfume shop. It’s fair to say that while Hard Leather is as potent as it claims, it is also unbalanced. Heavy synthetics overpower any other materials that don’t shout and the perfume’s chief characteristic is disproportion.
The name says it all. Not about the perfume but about the fantasy the LM Parfums wants you to buy into. Hard Leather strikes a butch pose similar to the spectacle of masculinity you’d see in professional wrestling. The difference is that professional wrestling has a campiness that allows it to be melodrama and comedy at the same time. Hard Leather has the gravity but lacks the irony.