digging (into) vintage: Leonard de Leonard, 1989



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Perfumer Roger Pellegrino

I found Leonard de Leonard on a Basenotes thread about underestimated fragrances current and past.

Leonard de Leonard is a fruity, green-floral chypre.  And every time I think it’s a little too sweet for my taste, I get the purr of the leather and reconsider.  This is an LOL chypre (light on leather), not usually my preference, but Leonard uses its sweetness smartly.  It’s not a counterpart to the admittedly light leather note.  Rather, it matches the tone of the florals.  Green plum-like notes gibe with the watery sweetness of the lily of the valley and hyacinth.   The leather actually seems to fit with an unidentifiable spiciness that becomes, along with the leather, more noticeable yet oddly not any stronger in the drydown.  This is the part that won me over.   I feared Leonard might be headed for a bad, sweet soapiness, but the leather and spice steer it away from soap and toward a lightly mossy chypre drydown.

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