digging (into) vintage: Jean Patou 1000, 1972

patou 1000

Perfumer Jean Kerléo

I’ve tried the EDP of 1000 a couple of times, and I always love the dark topnotes, but it’s the EDT that I love from start to finish. There is a creaminess to the EDP that is less distinctive than the sharpness of the EDT. This keenness binds the florals and woods tightly.The layers, really more floral than woody at the start, are densely arranged, but evenly organized.  Like the crisp pages of a brand new hardcover book the first time you thumb through it.

There’s just enough animalism to modulate the tone of the florals. They’re just present enough to add complexity while not standing out as identifiably discrete notes. From the opening through drydown, 1000 is utterly coherent, and despite others’ characterizations of old-school, old lady perfumery, I find it mysterious. I think the ‘Is it a floral? Is it a chypre?’ question 40 years later reflects its complexity and wonderfully baffling personality.

1000 is more upright than uptight, more toned than starched Some perfumes shout, some whisper seductively.  1000 simply speaks very clearly and intends to be heard whether it is fully understood or not.

  1 comment for “digging (into) vintage: Jean Patou 1000, 1972

  1. Cook.bot
    01/12/2017 at 14:57

    “Wonderfully baffling”, indeed. I’m certainly baffled by my love of 1000. Though I cherish many old-ladyish chypres, I never seek out florals and would have ignored 1000 if a Basenoter hadn’t sent me a sample in a swap. Bam! So smitten that I immediately got it in all three strengths, in vintage. And the EDT is definitely the way to go.

    I’ve read that its floral is osmanthus. Thinking maybe that was a floral I could love, I tried others with that primary note, and nope, no love there. Is it the civet? It’s so mysterious, and so very elegant, almost queenly.

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