digging (into) vintage: Halston 1-12, 1976

Perfumer unknown

1-12 is proof of two truisms in perfumery: 1) fragrance doesn’t need to be expensive to be good, 2) men’s fragrance = (women’s fragrance – the more interesting parts) x 0.75.

Forget the fact that Halton’s 1-12 preceded Balmain’s Ivoire by 4 or so years. As a notion, an exercise, take Ivoire. Walk it back, strip it down, and you’ll have 1-12. Ivoire is a soapy white/green floral with an oddly edgy creaminess and a drydown arc of days. 1-12 isn’t as dense as Ivoire, but it is green and musky with a pinch of sharpness as well.

Their shared characteristic is green soapiness with a bite. For you dog people, Ivoire has of a terrier’s bite. 1-12, more a bird dog, has a soft mouth. Ivoire’s bite is a peppery carnation note that fits perfectly with its dense white/green floral sensibility. 1-12’s sharpness is a mild dose of moss and gives 1-12 its light green chypre quality.

1-12 comes only in edc concentrarion and after a strong opening, doesn’t have great endurance or projection, but because of its chypre drydown remains comfortable and coherent.

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