(Image Joan Jett, source Cultura Colectiva)
Perfumer Pierre Wargnye
I love a good fougère. I think the genre is underrated, and still recovering from association with a bad spell of male esteem issues from the 70s and 80s. The ubiquity and heavy-handed use of Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Azzaro pour Homme and eventually Drakkar Noir in the US in the 70s-80s and the association with a troubled masculinity made people run screaming from the aromatic fougère. Then Cool Water and the like made the more traditional lavender/coumarin fougère seem stale.
To the current iteration of Drakkar Noir. It’s bland and it’s loud. It’s the fragrance equivalent of battleship grey at volume 10.
Despite Drakkar Noir, it’s worth a dig through through the other fougères of the era. There are some beauties out there, and while we grieve over the damage done to the chypre with restrictions on materials, the classic fougère is at least as fatally wounded. Smell them while you still can.