digging (into) vintage: Gucci Envy, 1997

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(image source soisbelleetparle.fr)

Perfumer Maurice Roucel

Green florals succeed in different ways. No. 19 is a sharp green floral, Paco Rabanne Metal is a flinty green floral, Aliage is a cool green floral.

Envy is a sour green floral. Though bitterness works wonderfully in perfume, hence all the great leathers and chypres, sourness is another story entirely. As with coffee, bitter is ideal, sour is a shame.

But the sourness here adds a bit of fruit that ties the green and white florals and makes the whole thing soapy, if a bit cold. Interestingly, this is one of the few fragrances that people smell on me (a man) and comment positively on. I think the sourness reads as similar to “freshness” and “sportiness.”

I wear Envy occasionally, but I’ve never really grown fond of it. It is an insecticide-like floral, with references to floral notes but not the feel of bloom to it. I think it is the soapiness that makes me not write it off, but I can’t say it is a pleasant fragrance.

 

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