1) The Unhurried Beauties are about charm and make me realize that I don’t usually wear perfume to feel more attractive. I don’t usually use perfume to accent or enhance or (let’s be honest) just plain lie about my own appeal. I wear beautiful perfumes because I like to smell beautiful things. These perfumes give a feeling of offhand, almost indifferent beauty. They are languorous, but some people are nonchalantly stunning when shopping for groceries.
Del Rae Amoureuse
Robert Piguet Baghari
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle
Parfumeries Générale Louanges Profanes
Annick Goutal Passion
Serge Lutens Datura Noir
Comme des Garçons Daphne Guinness
Vero Profumo Kiki
(Quentin Crisp by Angus McBeene)
2) Quentin Crisp
The art of faggotry has been de-prioritized in many ways and for so many reasons. Elton John became Disney. Tom of Finland came to be seen as aesthetic realism at the same time that irony became a series of one-liners. Gay parents turned their backs on faggotry and queerness faster than the mainstream homos of the mid 1980s turned theirs on the promiscuous fags dying from AIDS complications. So, fuck the parents and their prams and their school districts. Let’s hear it for Quentin Crisp and the Stonewall faggots who cleared the way for us all!
Robert Piguet Fracas
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette
Vero Profumo Rubj
Guerlain Insolence edp
Knize Ten (for the drag kings)
Kenzo Ça Sent Beau
Paco Rabanne Metal
3) The gamine androgyne. I lived in the 80s and quite enjoyed the autonomy of androgyny. It was a valuable ideal, and in light of the current hyper-genders of the 20-teens, might still have some lessons for us. My androgynous ideal was the femme tom-boy of Françoise Hardy. When I was in my teens I had long hair, and was often mistaken for a girl. Others tried to tell me that this was a negative outcome I had to accept if I wanted to keep my hair long. The implication was that I would have to accept this insult if I elected to deviate from the norm and have long hair. They never understood that being mistaken for a girl was fine by me and was an added perquisite of having long hair. I have always regretted cutting my hair.
(fascinating how the most iconic of the 20th century chypres fit this genre, eh?)
Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli
Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles
Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme