Etro Vetiver, 1989

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(image source Lucia Garcia Snow SSSSCIIIEEENCEEE)

Perfumer unknown

Etro Vetiver has a wonderfully burnt yet wet quality that makes this seem not so much like a fragrance to be worn in autumn, but a fragrance that smells of autumn. It smells like dried, fallen tree leaves that have been rained on, plus burnt cedar logs doused by the same rain. Etro’s Vetiver has a very strong opening. The vetiver has the scent of real dried vetiver roots, and gives me that feeling of smelling soil in an small, enclosed space. It makes me take shallow breaths as if the scent is dry like cold winter air and will chap my mucous membranes if I inhale too quickly. It’s visceral.

Etro’s Vetiver is stark. Not fresh by a long shot. No citrus, no marine notes. The woody, rooty vetiver is perfectly matched by a combination of saccharine licorice root and dry cedar. These two elements mimic vetiver giving Etro Vetiver not so much sillage as punch. Over time it becomes more woody than rootlike, and a cedar-like tobacco dominates the drydown.


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