Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude, 2005

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Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel

Estée Lauder turned to Tom Ford for an image face-lift. How to bring the classic Youth Dew into the 21st century? In descending order of importance: 1) Change the image. 2) Get someone or other to fiddle with the perfume. While neither of the above photos are from the YDAN campaign, they help to explain the strategy. Youth Dew conjures images of old lady perfume (above-right) in the minds of the 20s-30s EL shopper.

Tom Ford’s strategy for changing the image: keep the old name, but add cheap sex (“Amber Nude”). The salacious name replaces Grandma Bird-flip with the Campfire Girls Gone Wild (upper left) in the mind of the buyer.  At least that’s the attempt.

As for the perfume, it’s a syrupy amber with a strong rubber note as a counterpoint to the sweetness. Not outrageous—kinda mainstream with a twist.  An interesting strategy for an inventive perfumer like Laudamiel to take in the context of a Ford perfume for Estée Lauder.  Also, less Youth Dew than Cinnabar.

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