Estée Lauder Private Collection, 1973

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private collection

Perfumer Vincent Marcello

Green florals, grass, woods, powder, moss. It’s funny the way we rewrite gender over time. I’m sure this was prissily feminine at the time it was released, but if a niche house released this today as a masculine and used all the synonyms for fresh (too down-market to use the word itself) to describe it, this would sell like mad. I can hear it. “A new type of masculine scent. Tonic and Brisk, with Just Enough Sass and Daring to be Powdery.”

I love green chypres and usually lean toward the leather variety. This one has not a trace of leather, and in fact is pretty light on moss to my nose. What appeals to me is the balance of its ingredients that overall gives an impression of flowers, leaves, and mostly, grass. This is what the lawns in utopia smell like.

Plan ahead. This stuff is potent and lasts for days.

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