Clive Christian V for Women, 2012

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(image source Getty Images)

Perfumer Geza Schoen

Clive Christian V is a patchouli-chypre. One approach to make up for the lost moss at the heart of the classical chypre is to overdose the patchouli. It’s an approach that’s been done before the IFRA ever sank their claws into oakmoss. Witness the undisputed champion Clinique Aromatics Elixir.

With V, the cost/quality imbalance in perfumery is laid bare. Consider the following list of the same idea done better and costing much less:

Clinique Aromatics Elixir

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chérie

Aramis A 900

Histoire de Parfum Noir Patchouli

État Libre d’Orange l’Après-Midi d’une Faune

Le Labo Ylang 49

I’m beginning to regret all the times I said how odd it is that no one’s ever really followed in the footsteps of Aromatics Elixir—that nobody’s really tried to imitate it.  Expensive imitation on my wrist, I’ll watch my tongue in the future.

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