Category: 2015

Hendley Perfumes Gia, 2015

Perfumer Hans Hendley The roaring 1920s and the disco 1970s were both known for hedonism. Fashion and style were considered reflections of character and self-expression kicked caution to the curb. Whether in speakeasies or Studio 54, theatricality and acting out were considered paramount to self-realization. Bathtub gin or blow. Flappers or disco queens. If it feels good, do it. Economic…

Hendley Perfumes Bourbon, 2015

  Perfumer Hans Hendley We’re approaching a bubble. Or we’re already in one—bubbles are notoriously identified after the fact. The Perfume Bubble has all the features of previous speculative bubbles, from the Dutch Tulip Crisis in the 17th century to the Housing Market Crash of 2008. It even follows the five stages: 1) Displacement, or New Paradigm. (Independent Perfumery) 2)…

Hendley Perfumes Rosenthal, 2015

Perfumer Hans Hendley Rosenthal is an interesting challenge. It’s a new perfumer’s entry into a well-travelled genre. It’s a big, boozy rose, in the same broad woody rose category as the rose chypres, florientals and woody florals. Artisanal perfumery brings a new perspective to the table. Small-batch extractions of materials, inventive methods and ‘outside the box’ approaches ignore the boundaries of…

Aftelier Perfumes Vanilla Smoke (edp), 2015

  ‘Vanilla’ is a crossover note found in both natural and mainstream perfumery. But notes aren’t necessarily materials. ‘Vanilla’ notes in contemporary dessert-style gourmands and orientals likely have as much actual vanilla in them as the ‘vanilla snow’ flavor at my local frozen yogurt joint does. Synthetic vanilla materials have been around since the days of early modern perfumery when…

iris

(image, klick.com) Papillon Artisan Perfumes Angélique. Perfumer Liz Moores, 2013 Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré. Perfume Julien Rasquinet, 2015 Masque Milano l’Attesa. Perfumer Luca Maffei, 2016 Iris was a key part of the grand ‘orchestral’ perfumes that are now considered dated if not antiquated. Old-school Guerlains like Mitsouko and l’Heure Bleue nested orris root and iris aromachemicals in complex structures. Modern…

Parfums Dusita Issara and Mélodie de l’Amour, 2015

(image, Riccardo Sabatini) Perfumer Pissara Umavijani. Buyers often identify how much they’ll spend on a perfume and then cross-shop everything in that range. Here is where Parfums Dusita finds itself at an interesting crossroads. It is the most expensive artisanal line of perfume. Cost-wise, Dusita is in the Dove, 777, Xerjoff neighborhood. With its high price-tag (approx $325-450 per 50…

Anatole Lebreton Incarnata, 2015

Perfumer Anatole Lebreton. Perfumes that smell like lipstick have a special appeal. For some they are nostalgic, for others they are a femme fetish. When combined, violet, iris root and rose replicate the swirl of freshly applied lipstick. Musks, vanilla, sweet woods and resins bridge the florals to the cold, powdery waxiness that defines lipstick’s olfactory ‘feel.’ A lipstick ‘note’…