Category: 2013

iris

(image, klick.com) Papillon Artisan Perfumes Angélique. Perfumer Liz Moores, 2013 Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré. Perfume Julien Rasquinet, 2015 Masque Milano l’Attesa. Perfumer Luca Maffei, 2016 Iris was a key part of the grand ‘orchestral’ perfumes that are now considered dated if not antiquated. Old-school Guerlains like Mitsouko and l’Heure Bleue nested orris root and iris aromachemicals in complex structures. Modern…

Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 Khol de Bahrein, 2013

Photo of John Todd by Markus Lambert. A gourmand-cosmetic perfume might not sound like the ideal hybrid fragrance, but Khol de Bahrein is convincing. It is a candied floriental of middle-eastern extraction with iris, violet and heliotropin dipped in amber and incense. The range of resins and flowers is calibrated to create an image of sweets ranging from dragées to…

Hermès Bel Ami Vetiver, 2013

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m split on the recent spate of note-flankers from Hermès. Rose Amazone, Bel Ami Vetiver and Equipage Geranium. Pessimistic: Hermès are stocking the cupboards with a few flankers until Christine Nagel can come up to speed. Optimistic: Contemporary versions of the classics build the past into the future, mirroring the hand-off from Ellena to Nagel. In flanking the…

Aftelier Perfumes Cuir de Gardenia, 2013

(Image, Eisklotz) I’ve recently had the opportunity to correspond with perfumer Mandy Aftel and she’s agreed to help me learn about the world of natural perfumery by trying her perfumes.  We’ve decided to start the discussion with a single perfume.  I left it to her discretion where to begin and she chose Cuir de Gardenia eau de parfum. ** Traditional floral-leather…

Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà and Seyrig

Image Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a fine point, but Bruno Fazzolari’s perfumes Au Delà (2013) and Seyrig (2015) don’t imitate perfumes from the past.  Instead, they take their genres apart and discover what makes them tick.  Even though Fazzolari refers Seyrig as “inspired by the aldehydic motifs of the late ’60s and early ’70s perfume” it steers clear…

Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack, 2013

Image from Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. There is nothing new in Lampblack.  Then again newness is overrated in perfumery.  ‘Unconventionality’ is code—camouflage for a lack of nuance and uninventive composition.  Niche perfumery is the boy, novelty is the wolf. Better than novelty, Lampblack has a point of view. Consideration and creativity are more valuable than gimmickry, and let’s call…