Category: 2017

Guerlain Mon Guerlain, 2017

Perfumer Thierry Wasser. So, what is the recipe for a big-budget, got-to-be-successful, no-room-for-error, if-you-build-it-they-will-come perfume? To judge by Guerlain’s approach: Mix equal parts imitation, predictability and risk aversion in a large bowl. Bake in a lukewarm focus-group until stale. Sprinkle with olfactory least common denominators. Serve in a bottle replete with historical Awethenticity™. Buon appetitio. Am I cynical? Clearly, but…

Take One Thing Off

  I just read the entire site Take One Thing Off, an online investigation of perfume by writer Claire Vukcevic. Well, reread, actually. I’ve followed the site since it was launched in 2015. The site’s name is a reference to Coco Chanel’s fabled editing method: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” Vukcevic…

Bruno Fazzolari Feu Secret, 2017

Feu Secret is an exploration of orris, a tricky material to describe in notes. Combined with other components in a composition it has an olfactory range of that lands it squarely in the woody-floral category. Of course orris butter can also make a perfume powdery, metallic, papery, chocolatey or yeasty depending on the angle of approach so to speak. It…

old/new—digging (into) vintage

The business of niche perfumery is gridlocked. The combination of two opposing forces is pushing perfumery to a tipping point and the market is on track to slam the brakes soon. The first is the escalating pace of new perfumes and the second is a concept called the Law of Diminishing Marginal Utility. The principle holds that the perceived value of…