Category: 2016

Zoologist Perfumes Macaque, 2016

Perfumer Sarah McCartney. Victor Wong has used a model of art direction to build the Zoologist Perfumes line. As the brand’s owner and artistic director Wong commissions work from independent perfumers and collaborates with them to shape the perfumes. I’m interested in commissioned work because it allows an artist to step outside of herself to try on a new persona/style.…

Parfumerie Générale Arabian Horse 3.1, 2016

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. The name fits. From the very opening Arabian Horse creates a setting that evokes equestrian affairs. It smells like farms, barns and steeplechases. The topnotes are strong and urgent, but the stables-and-tack mis-en-scène is just exposition and dramatic build-up. The heartnotes are the reveal. The pacing of the perfume reminds me of the actual experience of approaching…

Institut Très Bien Colognes Fines: Rose de Mai, Violette de Parme, Tuberose Absolue

Perfumers not cited by Institut Très Bien. Institut Très Bien is dedicated to the Eau de Cologne. In 2005 the brand launched three fragrances by perfumer Pierre Bourdon, each a spin classic cologne: Cologne à la Française, Cologne à l’Italienne, Cologe à la Russe. They were not revolutionary and they weren’t intended to be. They were, however, excellent. Multiple releases…

Hiram Green Arbolé Arbolé, 2016

Perfumer Hiram Green A justifiable complaint against much of natural perfumery is that the compositions can be muddied and vague. Blending botanicals, even when using isolates, can be tricky. Compositions with a limited number of components keep the materials’ personalities front and and center but don’t compel them reveal anything new. When too many materials are used the composition loses…

Tauerville Hyacinth and a Mechanic, 2016

  Perfumer Andy Tauer The Tauerville line started surreptitiously with a perfume called Rose Flash. It was initially a limited release and wore the familiar “Tauer” label, though the small print contained something new: “Tauerville Collection.” By the time it was released more widely it proudly wore the Tauerville badge on the front of the bottle. Hyacinth and a Mechanic also…

Slumberhouse New Sibet, 2016

Images of Noah Purifoy’s Joshua Tree Outdoor Museum. Perfumer Josh Lobb. Like other Slumberhouse perfumes, New Sibet feels deliberate. As if the perfume I’m smelling is the thousandth mod. The one that got the dynamics, tones and balances just the way the perfumer intended. The attention to detail is apparent, but most Slumberhouse perfumes favor ecstatic imbalance over caution. New…

Thoughts on Notes/Medium/Scent.

  Catherine Haley Epstein’s article, Primal Art: Notes on the Medium of Scent makes some interesting conjectures about the social role of scent and art. She emphasizes the prosocial and intimate nature of scent-based work and how it modulates the cultural effects of recent information technology. The article was published on 9/30/2016 in Temporary, a platform with an emphasis on…

Chanel and Mugler Flankers, 2016. Order and Chaos.

(image School of Permaculture) Chanel No 5 l’Eau, perfumer Olivier Polge. Thierry Mugler Angel Muse, perfumer Quentin Bisch. Chanel No 5 and Thierry Mugler Angel are two of the most popular and commercially successful French perfumes in history.  As with any fashion house that has a ‘signature’ perfume, the product is both a source of steady income and the face…