Category: 2010

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady, 2010

Perfumer Dominique Ropion. The rose and patchouli pairing is such a good fit that it seems like proof of fate. It’s been the basis for a range of leathery, ambery, woody and mossy perfumes spanning woody-floral, chypre and oriental genres. The Malle PR boasts that Ropion used surpassing doses of rose essence and patchouli coeur, a fractionated patchouli. Fractionated naturals…

Cumming by Alan Cumming and 2nd Cumming by CB I Hate Perfume

(Image, christcenteredmall.com) Perfumer Christopher Brosius. I’m not certain how Cumming (2004) and 2nd Cumming (2010) are related. Obviously, the second followed the first. Beyond that, reformulation? Sequel? The CB I Hate Perfume website states that 2nd Cumming is, “exactly the same as the original Cumming” yet provided Brosius and actor Alan Cumming the opportunity to, “…do the scent the way…

Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un Ange, 2010

Image lifted from Loretta Lux. Perfumer Andy Tauer Carillon pour un Ange hits like an olfactory epiphany. It is captivating, ravishing. I can’t stop taking long, slow inspirations of it. The muguet (earthy, oily, creamy, strangely autumnal) is so distinct from the light, pretty lilies of the valley I’ve smelled before. Muguet is the lead-in to the leather, the fresh,…

Houbigant Fougère Royale, 2010

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux I think I’ve let expectation get the best of me. I tried the reissued Fougere Royale (original 1882 by Paul Parquet) and was underwhelmed. While the drydown had a pleasant soapy quality, Fougere Royale mostly seemed like a mild lavender fragrance, not the trombones-blasting, coumarin-fest I imagined. Again, my expectation, my problem. Still, in trying to consider Fougere Royale on its…

Chanel Bleu, 2010

Perfumer Jacques Polge It’s not inevitable that a Big Seller will be bad.  It’s not wrong to design a perfume intended to find a large middle of the consumer market.  I don’t have a problem with the notion of Bleu.  Bleu’s strategy is demonstrated in its advertising and by its fresh-citrus-woody genre.  It aims for the wide center of the…

Vero Profumo Onda Eau de Parfum, 2010

Monsters frighten us for the way they tell us about ourselves. Don’t doubt it, Onda is a monster. Vero Kern plucks specific and unexpected descriptors from each of her component pieces. Vetiver (salt lick), passionfruit (floral rot), ginger (sand-paper), honey (musky sharpness), woods (dust). Using these disparate pieces Kern composes a perfectly poised  perfume that I could never have dreamed of. It’s…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore, 2010

Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour In the wrong hands this perfume might just have been an exercise. How do you take a food known as much for its texture and viscosity and make its scent appear out of thin air? Turkish delight doesn’t have the effusive quality of many other food scents. Think of a piece loukhoum as a planet. The aroma…