Category: 2008

Editions Parfums de Frédéric Malle Dans tes Bras, 2008

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle launched in 2000 with a rock-star lineup of perfumers, including Maurice Roucel, who composed the culty Musc Ravageur for the brand. Art direction and commissioning independent perfumers was nothing new in 2000. In fact, it was the founding model of niche perfumery. Early examples Diptyques (1961), l’Artisan Parfumeurs (1976), Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier (1988) were…

Thierry Mugler Miroir Miroir Collection, 2008

The Miroir Collection was a new blueprint for Mugler in 2008. At the time, the rest of the line was based on a seemingly exponential quantity of flankers of Angel, Cologne, Alien. (Womanity was released in 2010.) The five-piece collection was sold as a fairytale fantasy mirror. Three are woody florals (A Travers le Miroir, Miroir des Secrets, Miroir des…

Indult Reve en Cuir, 2008

Image lifted from Philip-Lorca diCorcia. Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. Some notes are easier than others. Not to create, but to accept at face value. Vanilla is one. People recognize ‘vanilla’, whether it’s a vanilla bean, veratraldehyde or ethyl vanillin.   Leather requires a little more work. ‘Leather’ is more a range of olfactory tones than a specific note that can be emulated. It is…

Amouage Lyric Woman, 2008

  (image source unknown) Amouage Lyric Woman, 2008.  Perfumer Daniel Maurel. Rose is a flower in the same way that sandalwood is a wood, and vanilla is a spice. Each is so definitive of its category, that it supersedes the classification. With this star quality rose tends to be difficult to hide. The only reason this predicament isn’t a problem is that nobody…

Bond no 9 Chinatown, 2008

(image source unknown) Perfumer Aurélien Guichard Chinatown is a floral, fruity chypre of the new school. It could easily fall into other categories (gourmand, fruity-floral, floriental) but this all-things-to-all-noses bit is a tribute to the creative wealth of the chypre genre. The opening of Chinatown gives it all to you. Flower (indoles from orange blossom,) fruit (peachy plum) bitterness (oakmoss)…

Guerlain Insolence Eau de Parfum, 2008

  (image, Melancholia) Perfumers Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte I’ve read that Insolence is Maurice Roucel’s rif on Après l’Ondée (1906) but I take Luca Turin’s point that Insolence is more akin to l’Heure Bleue (1912). It’s as if l’Heure Bleue is being quoted or at least closely paraphrased. Insolence EDT 2006  is an accomplished, tightly-constructed perfume with surface similarities…

Balmain Ambre Gris, 2008

Perfumer Guillame Flavigny In its favor, Ambre Gris tells you all about itself up front. It’s plainspoken, there are no surprises and it doesn’t take much concentration. Against it, Ambre Gris has the feel not so much of synthetic perfumery as fake food. It’s a twinkie instead of shortcake. It’s margarine and cornstarch syrup on your pancakes. That said, I…

Tom Ford Italian Cypress, 2008

  Perfumer not cited by Tom Ford brand. When I read that Tom Ford Italian Cypress was a 1970s-style fragrance, I’ll admit I cringed.  Fashion’s sense of history tends to be horrifying in its insipidness.  But Italian Cypress isn’t simply an exercise in style. It’s an homage to perfumes from the past.  In the 1970s, there were big, noticeable fragrances…

Creed Love in Black, 2008

Perfumers Erwin Creed and Olivier Creed I saw a bottle of this in a shop and just had to try.  The bottle is that matte black that people spend thousands of dollars on to paint their Mercedes. This symbolism of affluence and chic is so strained it creaks. It’s like an overbred poodle.  So particular, so self-conscious.  The desired message…