Category: 2007

Guerlain My Insolence, 2007

Perfumers Sylvaine Delacourte and Christophe Raynaud Do you remember how much people kvetched about Insolence when it was released? It was The Death of Guerlain. There had been similar raining-cats-and-dogs wailing about a few other post-LVMH Guerlains: Champs Elysées, l’Instant, the entire Aqua Allegoria line. (Guerlain has in fact survived long enough to hear similar complaints about Idylle, Shalimar Parfum Initial…

Chanel Coromandel, 2007

  Perfumer Jacques Polges. A house like Chanel has to play a few different angles at once if they want to sell their products.  With Cormandel they tie together a few different narratives that target a number of key demographics simultaneously. It’s an odd dance that Coromandel performs seamlessly.  Coromandel is a Hippy Patchouli and it’s an Old Lady Perfume. …

Vero Profumo Onda Extrait, 2007

Perfumer Vero Kern, 2007. Aesthetics might be shared but beauty is experienced personally. Discussions of aesthetics often lead to unanswerable questions on the nature of attraction, absolutes and subjectivity. Onda’s contribution to the debate is to show where the discussion takes place. Wearing Onda shows you that beauty is experienced at the limits. Simple ease and comfort might be found without…

Chanel Cuir de Russie, 1924 (2007)

(Image lifted from Katerina Plotnikova) Perfumer Ernest Beaux.  1924. Reformulation, Jacques Polge.  2007. Most of what has been written on classical perfumery falls into three categories: the description, the tribute and the complaint, also known as anger passing for nostalgia.   Take Chanel no 5: • The description: Soapy. Bubbly. Old Lady perfume. Flowery.  Feminine.   • The tribute: The…

Tom Ford Oud Wood, 2007

(Photo source unkown) Perfumer Richard Herpin Oud tends to be the gorilla in the room in a fragrance. Oud being both potent and distinctive, the challenge is how to make an oud-centric perfume fundamentally different than any other.  This is a problem for all perfume producers, not just Tom Ford.  Oud is the It-Girl still, and here lies the other problem.  The oud trend…

Jean Paul Gautier Fleur du Male, 2007

Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Looking back, Francis Kurkdjian’s Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male marks the time when Kurkdjian was pivoting his career from work for designer labels and the more rarified niche lines to his own line.  Fleur du Male was released in 2007.  2009 saw the first perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Designer, but with a twist, Fleur du…

Badgley Mischka Fleurs de Nuit, 2007

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux Follow-ups to fist time successes are notoriously difficult and Badgley Mischka appear to have tried to recreate the win by following a similar strategy to the original Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka.  The original perfume was a syrupy fruitchouli released in 2006.  While the genre may have been generic, the perfume was not.  It dressed up a shady…

Bond no 9 Coney Island, 2007

Perfumer Michel Almairac You can recognize a classic Guerlain when you come across it.  Same goes for Caron, Estée Lauder, Montale, Amouage. It might be a similarity of style, it might be recognizeable notes.  It’s a sort of calling card. Recognition is the first step in branding, and most up-and-coming houses seek brand identifiability. Christ, did Bond no. 9 choose the…