Category: 2005

Lancome Sikkim (La Collection), 2005

Perfumer of 2005 version unknown Sikkim reminds me of the expression, “to fly off the handle.”  Sikkim’s escalation is so quick that it doesn’t even seem like progression, just the flip from something calm to something disturbed. The first sniff sends you reeling.  Sikkim is fast, rough and, I don’t know.  I guess abundant.  It’s everything at once.  It’s a…

Estée Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude, 2005

Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel Estée Lauder turned to Tom Ford for an image face-lift.  How to bring the classic Youth Dew into the 21st century?  In descending order of importance:  1)  Change the image.  2) Get someone or other to fiddle with the perfume.  While neither of the above photos are from the YDAN campaign, they help to explain the strategy.  Youth Dew conjures…

Parfums MDCI Invasion Barbare, 2005

(image Jenny Shimizu) Perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche, 2007 I’m all for dismissing gender in perfume. Or at least fucking with it. It’s been noted that men and women relate differently to their fragrances if they wear only one (“The One”). For women it’s The Signature Perfume. For men it’s merely Old Faithful. The implication is that women are notable for their desire to…

Annick Goutal Songes, 2005

Perfumer Isabelle Doyen. The mixed floral is a very particular exercise. For many, it implies sophistication, though for the connoisseur a mixed floral might be a cliché. Given the icons, Jean Patou Joy,  Chanel No. 5, Amouage Gold, anything less than outstanding doesn’t measure up. And given the ubiquity of floral scented functional products any floral perfume with less than…

Bond no 9 Bleecker St, 2005

Perfumer David Apel For the life of me, I never understood that song about the cake being left out in the rain. I get it now. Pairings. Combinations. Fusion. Synthesis. There are plenty of words to describe how two ideas, objects or properties can be put together. Broad strokes, there are three outcomes. Blend, eg. citrus fruit and leaf in an…

Amouage Jubilation XXV (sort of) 2005

(Image of planned Museum of History of Islamic Science by omanobserver.com) Amouage Jubilation XXV, 2005. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Amouage Gold Woman, 1983. Perfumer Guy Robert. The founding concept of Amouage is the hybrid that results from a meeting of cultures. Eastern materials and sensibilities, Western methods and composition. Omani direction, European perfumers. Combining cultures shifts power and transforms identity. It’s…