Category: 2004

Cumming by Alan Cumming and 2nd Cumming by CB I Hate Perfume

  (Image source unknown) Perfumer Christopher Brosius. I’m not certain how Cumming (2004) and 2nd Cumming (2010) are related. Obviously, the second followed the first. Beyond that, reformulation? Sequel? The CB I Hate Perfume website states that 2nd Cumming is, “exactly the same as the original Cumming” yet provided Brosius and actor Alan Cumming the opportunity to, “…do the scent…

Parfumerie Générale Cuir Venenum, 2004

Image source unknown Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. Cuir Venenum takes orange blossom down two parallel courses, neither of which is expected. Track # 1.  Similar to iris, underneath orange blossom’s sweetness there is a sweaty quality that gives the flower its dimension and complexity.  Cuir Venenum capitalizes on the blossom’s underbelly by steering it in a yeasty, fermented direction, giving Cuir Venenum…

Duchaufour’s Duet: l’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu and Dzongkha

Bertrand Duchaufour lead the trend of woody-smoky perfumes in the late 90s and the 00s, particularly with his perfumes for l’Artisan Parfumeur and Comme des Garçons. He became known for the genres that his work redefined: translucent incenses, sheer vetiver, weightless woods.  Seen from the present, the significance of Duchaufour’s work is better understood by looking at his style and…

Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise Men, 2004

Perfumer Calice Becker High art/low art.  Pop culture/classical art.  My expectations of an episode of Dancing With the Stars, a December Nutcracker and A Merce Cunningham retrospective will be different.  It’s not just art versus entertainment.  It has to do with the intention implicit to the work, the meaning surrounding the creation and performance of the work, the history of…

l’Artisan Parfumeurs Jour de Fete, 2004

Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti Olivia Giacobetti has a way of challenging the wearer without threatening.  Jour de Fete makes you question your senses. It presents you with notions of softness, quiet and comfort at the same time that it makes you consider legibility and dynamics.  It poses questions. What is the difference between quiet and soft in a perfume? Is low…

Bond no 9 Little Italy, 2004

Perfumer Francis Camail topnotes: orange mid-notes: none basenotes: none I like eau de cologne that starts enthusiastic and demonstrative and then simmers down to a different emotional range. Content, calm, grounded. Cologne is more a jump-start than a marathon. People who wear cologne, especially just out of the shower or on getting dressed to face the world, want a pick-me-up,…

Creed Original Vetiver, 2004

Perfumers Erwin Creed and Olivier Creed Which word in the name of this fragrance is further from the truth? Original? Actually Original Vetiver (2004) is a soapy, citrus-woody fragrance in the vein of just about every designer men’s fragrance with the words “fresh” or “sport” in the name from the era. Vetiver? Not as far as I can smell. Original…

Keiko Mecheri Oliban, 2004

Perfumer Yann Vasnier The woody fruity perfume’s place in history seems to have been half-erased by the seminal reconstruction of the category by Christopher Shelldrake and Serge Lutens and their Bois perfumes for Serge Lutens line.  It is easy to forget that the woods and fruits have long been combined in perfumery, but they were filed under different headings, so…

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella, 2004

Perfumer Aurélien Guichard The perfumer having been let out of the closet, so to speak, allows perfume enthusiasts to focus on particular perfumers.  Cellier, Roudnitska, Robert, Chant.  I think the precedent here is cinema, and its move from the focus on the studio and producer to the director.  ‘Art film’ of the 1950s-1960s (Kurasowa, Truffault) could be likened to early…