Category: 2002

Christian Dior I Love Dior, 2002

(Image: Freedom Fries, Bottomless. Alexander Kargaltsev.) Perfumer not cited by Dior. I Love Dior is my latest $12 Ebay purchase.  I haven’t received it yet, but the bottle, the name, the zeitgeist give me more than enough to start writing. In 2003, French Fries became “Freedom Fries” when a US member of Congress proposed excising France from the American consciousness…

Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire, 2002

(image Randolph Scott and Cary Grant) Perfumer Dominique Ropion. Vetiver root has been used in perfumery since day one, but the eponymous masculine Vetivers fixate on it with a particular reverence. Vetiver isn’t simply the masculine equivalent of the feminine white floral. It’s become a ceremonial totem of male toiletry, ranking with the fougère as a masculine olfactory reference. In the late…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant, 2002

Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti Olivia Giacobetti has a knack for making novel perfumes that surprise but don’t shock. They are unexpected, but perfectly coherent when you think about them. The sweet and salty hay of Dzing! The smoked-lily soap of Passage d’Enfer. It’s a delicious way of changing our reality.  The trick is neither fantastical nor over-the-top. She gives us something…

Comme des Garçons Avignon, 2002

  (image vonwoof) Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour All the talk of the mysterious sense of smell, the visceral sense of smell. The sense of the emotions, therefore with the least association with reason. I really don’t get that. Yes, the sense of smell is discussed incorrectly or at least poorly. We have a striking lack of vocabulary for smell and how…

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, 2002

Perfumer Michel Roudnitska Growing up, history was never my strongest subject and I’ve wound up with a child’s understanding of history. It’s a kind of chauvinism of the present where the exceptional is always manifest in the present and therefore every moment is the best ever. It’s exhausting. As a result of this skewed view, my bias is to regard contemporary trends as…

Amouage Dia Man, 2002

Perfumer unknown. Amouage Dia Man, poor dear, suffers from the Middle Child Syndrome. It sits in the long shadow of older Amouage brother, Gold Man, and can’t match his egregious, universally adored younger sibling Jubilation XXV. And what’s with the names? Dia? Day? Among such names as Gold, Honor, Epic, Opus, Beloved. You might as well have named Dia Bob. The smart money, though, will…

Creed Himalaya, 2002

Perfumer Erwin Creed Caveat:  I am not the Creed customer. The transparency of their aspirational marketing/mythology makes me laugh. I’ve just tried Original Vetiver and Himalaya. Each falls squarely into existing mass-market masculine fragrance categories. The former is a a typical fresh/sport millennial  masculine, the latter is a fruity/metallic aquatic of the Cool Water/Salvador Dali Laguna school. It can be argued that they…