Category: 2000

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie, 2000

Perfumer Dominique Ropion Ropion knows how to make monster florals. Ysatis, Amarige, Alien. Jarring and disturbing to some, ravishing to others. (Count me in the disturbed category.) The key is in the synth-natural play of Ropion’s aesthetic. Take Amarige and Alien (co-authored with Laurent Bruyère). They are considered versions of the soliflor yet to my nose they are so unequivocally…

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, 2000

(image source unknown) Perfumer Maurice Roucel. Wearing L de Lolita could well be a Catholic-school lesson on the sin of gluttony and the threats of eternal hell. The anticipation draws you close, the titilation makes you give in, the satisfaction is the pleasure you’ve been denied. Then you continue to eat, unable to control yourself, long past the point of nausea…

Frédéric Malle le Parfum de Thérèse, 2000

  It’s interesting to see the comparisons between Dior Diorella, Dior Eau Sauvage and Frédéric Malle Parfum de Therèse.  Diorella seems like the logical successor to Eau Sauvage. Riskier, less seemly than Eau Sauvage, it still came from the same principles and intentions of composition.  Parfum de Thérèse seems overall a little further from Eau Sauvage, a bit less similar in composition and…

Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur, 2000

(image, The Independent) (Perfumer Christian Provenzano.) Agent Provocateur is not the cotton candy cupcake or fruit slushie I’d expect from a modern lingerie brand. It’s a patchouli/rose chypre in the 1970s-1980s style. It is gravelly like many rose chypres, but it seems to have a less gigantic rose than that of Lauder’s Knowing and Rabanne’s La Nuit for instance. AP’s rose is rich, but comparatively…

Histoires de Parfums, 1740 (2000)

Perfumer Gérald Ghislain Perfume genres are based on materials and notes: chypre (oakmoss), floral, gourmand, fougere (coumarin), oriental (labdanum), fruitchouli.  Sometimes these categories are helpful and they hold together.  For instance, I’m fascinated by chypres and uninterested in sweet gourmands.  But there are exceptions that make the compositional genre approach less effective.  That is, I’m inclined to like fougeres and…

Mauboussin by Mauboussin, 2000

Perfumer Christine Nagel Mauboussin is a big-boned, inedible fruity oriental. It doesn’t always strike me as appealing, but it’s always striking. The fruit, plummy, peachy, mandarin, is just a bit rotten. It’s turned fruit that smells good in a brandy-like way but also warns you that it’s no longer edible. Actually, boozy isn’t quite it. The fruit and benzoin together…

Serge Lutens Arabie, 2000

Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake Arabie makes me understand the attraction of the dessert or gourmand fragrance, a category that otherwise doesn’t captivate me. Granted, Arabie is spared from the gourmand category by its emphasis on woods, but it is also sweeter than many gourmands, so the distinction seems weak. True, Arabie is over the top: too much spice, way too sweet,…

Calvin Klein Truth, 2000

Perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Alberto Morillas, Thierry Wasser Time was, names like this from Calvin Klein (Obsession, Eternity and the like) merely seemed pretentious. With the name Truth, Calvin Klein undershoots pretension and lands squarely in the merely stoopid. And, incidentally, in a glaring error in designer perfumes, leaves little room for flankers. Truth Fraiche? Cool Truth? But let’s take Calvin…