Category: 1999

digging (into) vintage: le Feu d’Issey & Yohji Homme 1998/1999

(images: Peter Hujar self portraits # 3 and #2, 1966.) Issey Miyake le Feu d’Issey, 1998. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier. Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme, 1999.  Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez.   By 1998 niche perfumery was firmly established though still in a formative phase. l’Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens might have been stretching the definitions of perfume but many niche houses valued more…

l’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer, 1999

Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti I’ve recently found my way to Giacobetti’s work, and I am fascinated.  I still want to investigate her fig and flower perfumes, but having experienced Dzing! Passage d’Enfer, Safran Troublant and Fou d’Absinthe, I’m sold. I love the scents of the perfumes that I’ve tried, but I am drawn to her for her artistic approach. Dzing! captures my…

digging (into) vintage: Inès de la Fressange, 1999

This fragrance might seem a bit of an oddball.  It stands yards apart from the gooey, syrupy gourmands and fruity florals of its year (1999.)  It also keeps its distance from the tradition of Beautiful Florals.  (Note: Composed by Calice Becker and released same year that she made the block-buster Beautiful Floral J’Adore for Dior.)  It is neither expansive, nor…

Gucci Rush, 1999

Gucci Rush, 1999.  Perfumer Michel Almairac. There’s nothing I can add to the comments I’ve read about how this smells.  Hairspray, lactones, patchouli, non-existent flowers, bubblegum, poppers.  All true. It’s the feeling, though. There’s not even an attempt to tether this thing to anything actually botanical.  Natural and chemical are words I tend not to use, because what do they…

Fragrances of Ireland Patrick, 1999

Perfumer unknown A fougère should be like a firm handshake. A good handshake doesn’t convey  literal meaning, and forget the mystical reading of intention through a handshake. Leave aside also the old-boy, club-of-masculinity thing. A handshake done correctly simply conveys presence. The two performers are simply in the moment together. Nothing more, nothing less. The handshake is one of a…

Gucci Rush, 1999

Perfumer Michel Almairac There’s nothing I can add to the comments I’ve read about how this smells.  Hairspray, lactones, patchouli, non-existent flowers, bubblegum, poppers.  All true. It’s the feeling, though. There’s not even an attempt to tether this fragrance to anything actually botanical.  Natural and chemical are words I tend not to use, because what do they mean?  Nature, as…