Category: 1998

digging (into) vintage: le Feu d’Issey & Yohji Homme 1998/1999

(images: Peter Hujar self portraits # 3 and #2, 1966.)   Issey Miyake le Feu d’Issey, 1998. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier. Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme, 1999.  Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez. By 1998 niche perfumery was firmly established though still in a formative phase. l’Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens might have been stretching the definitions of perfume but many niche houses valued more…

Guerlain Muguet 2015

Image Robert Doisneau Each May Guerlain release a Muguet eau de toilette. It is a spin on the French tradition of giving and receiving small bouquets of lily-of-the-valley on May 1. The original Guerlain Muguet was composed by Jacques Guerlain in 1908 and a new perfume of the same name was composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1998. Since 2006 (except…

digging (into) vintage: Gucci Envy for Men, 1998

Perfumer Daniela Andrier I’ve dogged Tom Ford’s perfumes. I’m not a great fan of his eponymous perfume line, but on smelling Gucci Envy for Men, something clicked. The Gucci perfumes of the Ford era were a first rate line of designer perfumes and are a testament to the value of art direction. Gucci Rush (Michel Almairac, 1999) is a pitch-perfect…

Penhaligon’s LP No. 9 for Men, 1998

(photo The Versatile Gent) Perfumer Christian Provenzano I got two blind buys on the same day. Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille reinforces the blind buy.  If I were to mistake my lucky randomness for logic I would never have to smell another perfume before buying again, because it’s brilliant.  Penhaligon’s Love Potion no 9 makes me want to…

Balmain de Balmain, 1998

(image Laverne Cox) Perfumer Antoine de Maisondieu Balmain de Balmain is best viewed as a part of the Balmain lineage rather than as a part of the trends of its time, the late 90s-early 00s.  Perfumery and its audience were still wrestling with the extremes, unable to find a balance.  The 80s power fragrances, notoriously large and tiresome, took ethylmaltol…

Bvlgari Black, 1998

  Perfumer Annick Ménardo I’ve just written about Guerlain Shalimar and Heritage and their lineage in the evolution of the amber fragrance. There is a strong sense of through-line. Although separated in origin by about 70 years, similarities of composition and intent are far more apparent than their differences. Then Black, the evolutionary jump. This fragrance captures the best of post-modernism: the breaking down…