Category: 1992

Davidoff Cool Water and Mugler Angel: Built for Each Other

(Image, Hubpages.com) (Davidoff Cool Water, Pierre Bourdon. Thierry Mugler Angel, Yves de Chiris and Olivier Cresp.) Cool Water was released in 1988. Angel, 1992. We’ve never really recovered. They hit the scene at different times and suited their decades slightly differently. Cool Water fit the oversized, go-go 1980s.  Popular culture was loud and crass and aspiration trumped consideration every time.…

digging (into) vintage: Jean Patou Sublime, 1992

Perfumer Jean Kerléo. Somewhere in the ’90s the chypre fell off the radar. Blame the IFRA, blame Angel (also 1992), blame whoever you like. It went quietly from the pinnacle of chic to over-the-hill faster than you can say ‘mousse de chêne.’ Why and how to restrict perfume materials is a popular if confusing debate today, but in the 70s-90s the…

Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits, 1992

Perfumer Christopher Shledrake The truth of Bois et Fruits, and the other spin-offs of Féminité du Bois as well, is hidden in plain sight in their names.  Bois de/et (insert note). Variation, exploration, overdosage.  The truth of the matter is, they are flankers.  The upside is that they demonstrate that a flanker isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The first thing…

Creed Erolfa, 1992

Perfumer Olivier Creed I’ve tried many of the fragrances in the Creed line.  Scorecard:  Really like Irisia (bought it.)  Had to try Love in White after having read Luca Turin’s review.  Virgin Island Water, Love in Black, Fleurissimo, Original Santal.  A fairly random sampling. But there are three that are of a piece.  Original Vetiver, Himalaya and now Erolfa.   They’re quite similar in overall shape…

Serge Lutens Bois de Violette, 1992

Perfumer Christopher Shledrake The first time I tried Bois de Violette I kicked myself for having bought Feminité du Bois a few months earlier.  You know that shitty feeling of having bought the good, and then finding the better?  I quickly came to the conclusion, though, that I prefer FdB for most purposes and would choose it over Bois de Violette if…

Thierry Mugler Angel, 1992

Perfumers Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chiris People are very attuned to the different tones of laughter. Laughter signals unguarded interaction in a group. It’s the sound of safety, the signal that it’s OK to lower your defenses.  Usually, that is. Angel has that irrational, inappropriate laugh of someone at a cocktail party that makes everyone unconsciously take a nervous…

Guerlain Heritage, 1992

Perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain Heritage is the spiritual successor to its great-aunt, Shalimar. It has Shalimar’s citrus/amber opening, skips the animalics and then rides out a resinous parade-float of a heart and base quite similarly to Shalimar. The difference is that Shalimar’s harmonies revolve around a purr and a growl. Heritage’s harmony is on a far larger scale. It has fewer low-decibel notes…