Category: 1991

digging (into) vintage: Rochas Globe, 1991

Perfumer: Nicolas Mamounas?  Jean-Claude Ellena? Globe is one of the lost boys from the 90s. Guerlain Heritage (the only one of the bunch still in production), Jacomo Anthracite, Givenchy Insensé, Paco Rabanne Ténéné.  Diverse trends led to the perfumes of the 90s.  The fougères from the 70s, the power frags from the 80s, the remapping of the terrain by Davidoff…

digging (into) vintage: Jacomo Anthracite, 1991

Perfumer Mark Buxton Luca Turin has referred to Anthracite pour l’Homme as one of the artful late 80s-early 90s men’s fragrances that that were influential critically, but not commercial successes.  The heart of this set was a group of floral fougères: Caron Troisième Homme (1985), Givenchy Xeryus (1986) and Paco Rabanne Ténéré (1988), YSL Jazz (1988).  They were a new…

Balmain Vent Vert, 1991

    (image wiccanmoonsong.blogspot.com) Original, 1947 by perfumer Germaine Cellier.  1991 by perfumer Calice Becker I can understand why the classic green floral seems dated to some.  The grassy green floral is the product of an era. Each decade, the 50s, the 60s, the 70s had its own take on the genre, yet they are remarkably of a piece.  I…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Dune, 1991

Perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Nejla Barbir Perfumery has ‘evolved’ slowly, charting a plodding course over the years. Chypres and fougères hung on for decades with only minor variations the contemporary gourmand and oud trends show little loss of momentum. But evolution only appears gradual in hindsight. If we were to use the term properly, we’d look for the abrupt changes,…

Chopard Casmir, 1991

Perfumer Michel Amairac Casmir is the amphibious step where perfume evolution took a creature from the oriental sea to the terra firma of the gourmand. The vanilla is comfortable yet unpalatable in the manner of vanilla extract–you might make cookies with it, but you would never pour it in a glass and down a slug.   The peachy/apricot fruit, when…