Category: 1990

Mario Valentino Ocean Rain (1990) or, On Diorissimo: Edmond Roudnitska’s Manifesto

 (image source unknown) Ocean Rain is a floral chypre made for the Italian luxury leather shoe and accessories firm Mario Valentino. Released in 1990, it was Roudnitska’s last perfume and it braids together ideas present in his earlier work. It plays with the clean/dirty dichotomy as Rochas Femme and Dior Diorella did, but leans toward the antiseptic. It’s a hybrid style of chypre like Rochas Moustache‘s fougère and Dior Eau Fraiche’s eau de cologne but it…

Chanel Egoiste, 1990

(image Narcisse by Gyula Benczúr) Perfumer Jacques Polge A nice woody-fruity fragrance will be at least somewhat attractive to 90% of those who smell it. It is undemanding and hits the right buttons. It’s like a blooming flower. Who actively dislikes jasmine or rose? Egoiste skips pretty, though, and dives straight to drop-dead gorgeous. It is a neo-oriental that beat…

Sisley Eau du Soir, 1990

Perfumer Jeannine Mongin One of the shinier green chypres. Heavier on the bergamot part of the chypre equation than the moss, Eau du Soir simply dazzles in the top notes. It stays true to its first impression, though, and remains brilliant through the heartnotes. By this point, most green chypres are either heading toward leather or a dusky sort of…