Category: 1988

Davidoff Cool Water and Mugler Angel: Built for Each Other

(Image, Hubpages.com) (Davidoff Cool Water, Pierre Bourdon. Thierry Mugler Angel, Yves de Chiris and Olivier Cresp.) Cool Water was released in 1988. Angel, 1992. We’ve never really recovered. They hit the scene at different times and suited their decades slightly differently. Cool Water fit the oversized, go-go 1980s.  Popular culture was loud and crass and aspiration trumped consideration every time.…

digging (into) vintage: Carven Vetiver Dry, 1988

1988. Perfumer unknown. Carven make one of the better known vetiver fragrances. It’s been around since 1957 and has stood shoulder to shoulder over the years with the other ‘classic’ vetivers that followed on its heels, namely Guerlain Vetiver (1961), Givenchy Vetyver (1959). Reformulations aside, these are Paris’s masculine Big Three of from the era. In 1988 Carven released a…

Carolina Herrera by Carolina Herrera, 1988

Perfumer Carlos Benaim People who lived large and loud in the 1980s will tell you that the bigness of the era was a reflection of exuberance and the sense of endless potential.  It wasn’t.  It was mostly just un-nuanced and noisy. Enter Carolina Herrera, the perfume, not the person.  It’s a child’s stick-drawing of a tuberose blown up to billboard…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Jazz, 1988

(image Billy Strayhorn) Perfumer Jean-François Latty Jazz is a great illustration of the point that the aromatic fougère of the 70s-80s had reached before Cool Water changed the rules.  It has a warm spiced opening that plays against the longer-lasting notes that define the heart and a classic fougère base. Jazz has a major/minor chord interaction that maintains my interest as…

digging (into) vintage: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Iris Bleu Gris, 1988

Jean-Paul Millet Lage. The name doesn’t lie, neither about the conspicuousness of the iris  nor the color it suggests. The classic iris descriptors are there at all times; in the soapy topnotes; in the rootlike powery heart; in the dry double root base of iris and vetiver. There was such an iris explosion in the mid-noughts of the 21st century…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne Ténéré, 1988

Perfumer Pierre Wargnye I guess it’s virtually a truism that a masculine floral will bomb. Sad. Ténéré had so many things going for it, too. A bright opening that gets darker as time passes; a raspy lavender that gives it a barbershop quality; a honey/urinous note that makes if feel lived in. Ténéré is a floral fougère in the YSL Kouros mold,…

digging (into) vintage: Kenzo Ça Sent Beau, 1988

(image Tuberose by Melissa Thorpe) Perfumer Françoise Caron. Ça Sent Beau is technically a fruity-floral It’s a plummy orange/tangerine draped with tuberose and orange blossom. But I suppose this is a floriental, with its white flowers coated with amber. Fougère? Well it does have a dark, nutty coumarin base. Chypre? Yeah, there’s bergamot and oakmoss. No joke–what the hell is this? Fruit?…

digging (into) vintage: Halston Couture, 1988

Perfumer unknown. Halton Couture is an interesting 80s-style scent. It is similar to Halston by Halston, but it has another perfume grafted onto it. It is a mildly green chypre with a rose/amber/patchouli oriental squeezed into the same bottle. Surprisingly it’s not a train wreck. It’s full of that more-more 80s style, but the rich amber connects the two genres…