Category: 1986

digging (into) vintage: Hermès Bel Ami, 1986

Perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac In retrospect, Hermès Bel Ami marks the midway point between the dry woods of Chanel Antaeus and the gasoline slap of Dior Fahrenheit. The connection is leather, which both the Chanel and the Dior hint at, but the Hermès wraps itself in.  An intermediate species can by definition only be identified after the fact.  So, here we…

digging (into) vintage: Claude Montana Parfum de Peau, 1986

Perfumer Jean Guichard Parfum de Peau is an animalic rose chypre of the 80s school. (Lauder Knowing, Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Ungaro Diva…). It’s not so much a leather scent as a live skin scent. The sweat gives Parfum de Peau a tannic quality. If you focus on just the rose, Parfum de Peau is very similar to other big 80s monster roses and…

digging (into) vintage: Givenchy Xeryus, 1986

Perfumer unknown. (Firmenich) Two fascinating moments in perfumery happened within a few years of each other. They are the “road not taken” moments. When Thierry Mugler’s Angel hit the scene in 1992, women’s perfumery was changed irrevocably. Florals, chypres, traditional orientals were instantly ancien régime. It was a classic paradigm shift, an overthrow of the old order. The floral survived…

digging (into) vintage: Prescriptives Calyx, 1986

Perfumer Sophia Grojsman. Calyx presaged the fruity floral era, and if considered as a fruity floral is among the most beautiful of the genre. But to my mind Calyx occupies a specific place in the evolution of the fruity-floral chypre. If Dior Diorella is a certain distance further down the road from its predecessor Eau Sauvage then Calyx is further still on the…