Category: 1985

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Poison, 1985

Perfumer Édouard Fléchier How naive we were in the 80s!  Poison wasn’t as loud as we thought.   Angel showed us there was still more room on the dial. Poison is a fetching little spicy floral. Certainly not the bulldozer that I only vaguely remember smelling in the 80s. But then again, I recently thought Lutens’s A La Nuit smelled like a mild…

digging (into) vintage: Estée Lauder for Men, 1985

  (image of Esther Quek) Perfumer not cited. Lauder for Men is a typically smart and category-merging fragrance from Estée Lauder. Gorgeous start with a bright citrus note that transitions comfortably to the strong green spirit connecting the top to the heartnotes (galbanum, juniper, clary sage.) It’s a beautiful synergy that’s wonderfully constructed and allows you to continue to make out the individual…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne La Nuit, 1985

Perfumer Jean Guichard To read other people’s impressions of La Nuit, it is a nostalgic scent of the 1970s and 80s. It may have been released in 1985, but it stands with the pillars of the big leathery chypres of the late 60s-70s: Aromatics Elixir, Scherrer de Scherrer, Azurée, Sikkim, Miss Balmain. La Nuit’s spin on the animalic leather chypre…

Annick Goutal Vetiver, 1985

Annick Goutal’s Vetiver (1985. Perfumer Annick Goutal) is the surf-and-turf of perfumery. I hear the words marine, aquatic and salty used often to describe fragrances and I always wonder what they mean. I understand marine when talking about Secretions Magnifiques. In that case it’s the scent of drying and decaying beach debris. I understand aquatic to be a marketing term to describe…

digging (into) vintage: Caron Le Troisième Homme, 1985

Perfumer Richard Fraysse Troisième Homme bends the classic aromatic fougère a bit. Still floral, still bitter. But unlike the model fougère, the bitterness isn’t diminished by a lavender-herbal rinse. There’s an angular, burnt note that darkens the composition. It smells like creosote bush in southern California desert in summer. The bitterness adds focus, and it’s a remarkable trick. It reads as dark but breezy, blending prettiness with melancholy. However it was composed, 3ème…