Category: 1983

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 1983

(image source unknown) Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Paris is one of the few perfumes that is 80’s in style, size and exuberance but can still be worn today without irony. It’s a cartoon-like rose with candied violet. A bit shrieky up top, but fortunately by the heartnotes the rose grows citric and astringent, lending a sweet/tart quality to the accord. Paris…

digging (into) vintage: Annick Goutal Passion, 1983

Annick Goutal Passion, 1983.  Perfumer Annick Goutal. The emotion passion has come to be confused with the expression of passion. Borrowing the vocabulary the romantic comedy film, passion has come to mean any attention seeking act. Set this in a culture where an action’s value varies directly with the number of people who witness it and passion loses its meaning as…

Amouage Gold Woman, 1983

Perfumer Guy Robert. Gold affirms a fundamental reality for me in the same way that stepping off an amusement park ride and feeling gravity reaffirms your kinesthetic sanity. The question is why should Gold be this 50-year-old white American guy’s article of faith rather than, say, Aventus, the opiates of my cohort? How do we come to love the perfumes we love?…

digging (into) vintage: Ungaro Diva, 1983

(image Shei Pei Pu, aka M. Butterfly by Peter Serling) Perfumer Jacques Polges I owe Diva a bit of an apology. It’s a heavy rose chypre, an era-specific genre (70s-80s) that I love. In the past I’ve noted that I like some of Diva’s cohorts more than Diva. (Paloma, Knowing, Scherrer de Scherrer, La Perla.)  I’ve tended to point to…