Category: 1981

digging (into) vintage: Chanel Antaeus, 1981

Perfumers Jaques Polge, François Demachy. Chanel Antaeus was my first perfume. I don’t remember who gave it to me, but I didn’t choose it myself. Looking back, my touchstones in perfume were Patou Joy, Lanvin Arpège, Dior Eau Sauvage and Paco Rabanne pour Homme. The first two my mother had, and introduced me to classical perfumery. I would sniff them out of the bottle and relish them.  I…

digging (into) vintage: Giorgio Beverly Hills Giorgio, 1981

  Perfumer Bob  Aliano I don’t quite understand the big perfumes of the 1980s. At heart, they carried a mixed message. They are unavoidable: large, loud, instantly recognizable, distressingly unmistakable.  They are written in bold print and are meant  to stand out.  The problem is that they were also used as identifiers to signal inclusion in a group, or rather,…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Kouros, 1981

Perfumer Pierre Bourdon I’ve worn Kouros on and (mostly) off since its release. I’ve never found it skanky or off-putting in the least. Categorically, I find it a musky, spicy-floral fougère. I’ll admit the musks give it a bit of a mammalian undertone, but the clove, botany’s super antimicrobial, more than holds the unwashed at bay. I tend to find…