Category: 1978

Estée Lauder Cinnabar, 1978

Perfumer Bernard Chant? Spicy, resinous amber perfumes are a feel-good genre in perfumery. The individual components (vanilla, benzoin, labdanum…) are like prefab bases and can single-handedly provide the blueprint for an Oriental perfume. The risk is the kitchen-sink syndrome. Cinnabar’s topnotes juxtapose a bright, aldehyde/bergamot accord against a boozy amber mix, a trick learned from Youth Dew. The segue from citrus to…

digging (into) vintage: Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, 1978

Photo, Susan Meiselas.  Hanging out on Baxter Street, 1978.  From The Prince Street Girls | New York (1976-2011) Perfumers Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger and Raymond Chaillon Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs is an unsurpassed example of top-down design in corporate perfumery.  Employing marketing strategies intended to launch products into the advertising pantheon of ‘Household Name’ commodities such as Coca-Cola and…

digging (into) vintage: Jacomo Silences, 1978

  (image source unknown) Perfumers Gérard Goupy and Jean-Claude Niel. All rivers flow to the sea.  All roads lead to Rome. OK, cheap euphemisms are easier to swallow than a Theorem of Sure Convergence. Jacomo give us a new perfume theorem: all green notes converge in Silences. Galbanum, narcissus, hyacinth, lily of the valley, oak moss, vetiver…  At various points…

Knize Two, 1978

(image OkayAfrica) Perfumer unknown Attire has been the greatest prop in the theater of gender. Men dress in one manner; women, another. Current standards tend to emphasize a hyper-gendered presentation through dress and grooming. Women in the self-confinement of higher heels than ever. Men packaged in increasingly conservative, less adorned trousers-shirt-jacket combinations. And it’s all so coded. Every detail is…

digging (into) vintage: Azzaro pour Homme, 1978

Perfumers Gerard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich and Richard Wirtz. We kvetch about the creative and well-made fragrances that are discontinued because too few would wear them; we resent the crap cologne that sells like mad. Isn’t it uplifting to see a fragrance that has been so popular for so long be so spectacular? If complexity in composition is rather old-school, then let’s hear it for…