Category: 1976

digging (into) vintage: Halston Z-14, 1976

Perfumers Vincent Marcello and Max Gavarry Z-14 is a classic example of hybrid vigor. It is a thunderously harmonious chypre/oriental that shows its dual heritage more as Janus than Jekyll and Hyde. The amber ties the two genres and Z-14 has a church pipe-organ range of harmonies, rumbling lows to keen highs. Z-14 starts with a bone-dry citrus/spicy/woody quality. The…

Van Cleef & Arpels First, 1976

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena Florals as a category often get maligned by perfume hobbyists. They’re considered quaint and liking them demonstrates a sort of naivté about perfume. ‘There, there, darling. In a few years you’ll find your way to the chypres and leathers.’ I couldn’t disagree more, and First is my evidence. Well-executed florals demonstrate beauty in the same way that…