Category: 1969

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Dioressence 1969/1979

(What a difference a decade makes. Uncredited photos of Washington, DC from 1969 and 1979.) 2013–I’ve seen some discussions online about the merits and pathologies of vintage perfume collecting. I’m live-and-let-live on this one. If it feels good, do it. But how far will you go for vintage? Me, not far. Of course my consolation prize is all of contemporary perfumery, so…

digging (into) vintage: Guerlain Chamade, 1969

Image, Gregory Crewdson. Perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain. Chamade captures the olfactory gestalt of Springtime like no other perfume. It smells like fresh stems, flowers, moisture, soil and rot. Succulence and indolence. More than a summary of notes, though, it smells like the sensations of Spring. It combines the acceleration of exploding growth and the leisurely pace of a world thawing over…

Bernard Chant and the Cabochard Family Tree

Images lifted from Thomas Allen. The start:  Grès Cabochard, 1959. Expectation works against Grès Cabochard, poor dear.  Many compare it in its current form to a vintage model.  I’ve never smelled vintage Cabochard, so that expectation isn’t an issue. Cabochard is the reference leather chypre of the mid-20th century.  It was popular, critically acclaimed and directly influenced the decades of…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne Calandre, 1969

  (image, 1969 Rolls-Royce) Perfumer Michael Hy I get the comparison between YSL Rive Gauche and Calandre, and I love to put one on each wrist just for kicks. It’s fun to watch them both unroll over time. Contrary to general consensus, I find Calandre both ligher in weight and darker in feel that Rive Gauche. Yes, Rive Gauche’s rose…

digging (into) vintage: Estée Lauder Azurée, 1969

Perfumer Bernard Chant. Chypres in general and leather chypres more specifically seem to be enormously popular perfume genres among perfume fans. Their complexities and balances of starkness and richness make them make them ripe for the continuing fascination of perfumistas. Azurée is a perfect fit for this group. I’ve smelled the current Gres Cabochard from which Azurée derives, and while reformulation has ruined it, I can see…