Category: 1956

Mario Valentino Ocean Rain (1990) or, On Diorissimo: Edmond Roudnitska’s Manifesto

 (image source unknown) Ocean Rain is a floral chypre made for the Italian luxury leather shoe and accessories firm Mario Valentino. Released in 1990, it was Roudnitska’s last perfume and it braids together ideas present in his earlier work. It plays with the clean/dirty dichotomy as Rochas Femme and Dior Diorella did, but leans toward the antiseptic. It’s a hybrid style of chypre like Rochas Moustache‘s fougère and Dior Eau Fraiche’s eau de cologne but it…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Diorissimo, 1956

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska I’ve just smelled the recent Diorissimo eau de toilette and I’ve tried to dissect the floral notes used to compose this ostensible lily of the valley soliflor. A green jasmine, a watery hyacinth, an oily, shallow ylang ylang. No spine, no shadow. What I get when I step back from dissecting it smells remarkably like an air freshener.…