Category: Thierry Wasser

Guerlain Mon Guerlain, 2017

Perfumer Thierry Wasser. So, what is the recipe for a big-budget, got-to-be-successful, no-room-for-error, if-you-build-it-they-will-come perfume? To judge by Guerlain’s approach: Mix equal parts imitation, predictability and risk aversion in a large bowl. Bake in a lukewarm focus-group until stale. Sprinkle with olfactory least common denominators. Serve in a bottle replete with historical Awethenticity™. Buon appetitio. Am I cynical? Clearly, but…

Guerlain Néroli Outrenoir, 2016

Perfumer Thierry Wasser. Hermès and Guerlain have both introduced new neroli perfumes into their line-ups this year. Hermès’s golden neroli Cologne (Eau de Néroli Doré) suited a summer launch and brought to mind sun, tanned skin and escapism. Guerlain skipped the gold and went for the black. “Outrenoir” (translated as ultra-black or beyond black) is a painting method practiced by…

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Couture, 2014

Image by Elena Montemurro.  Perfumer Thierry Wasser. Guerlain have long followed the rule that it’s better to be good than to be first.  Or at least it’s better to be the last one standing.  Coty Chypre created the genre that defined perfumery in the 20th century.  Mitsouko copied the formula, improved it and is now the standard-bearer.   Shalimar came…

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial, 2011

Perfumer Thierry Wasser Guerlain are getting smarter about their ‘younger’ entries into what is essentially a house composed of classics.  I’m not saying that the young Insolence buyer will necessarily move onto L’Heuere Bleue in later years, but there is a conceptual continuity between the two fragrances.  With both Insolence and Shalimar Parfum Initial, Guerlain is giving those new to…

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea, 2010

  (image Gucci Nymphaea handbag.) Perfumer Thierry Wasser I tried Flora Nymphea on a whim and it surprised me.  I don’t think of the Aqua Allegorias as very complex in intent or execution.  They’re the Post-It notes of French perfumery.  So Nymphea took me by surprise.  It’s fairly linear, yes, but it’s complex enough to be conversational, long lasting and…

Calvin Klein Truth, 2000

Perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Alberto Morillas, Thierry Wasser Time was, names like this from Calvin Klein (Obsession, Eternity and the like) merely seemed pretentious. With the name Truth, Calvin Klein undershoots pretension and lands squarely in the merely stoopid. And, incidentally, in a glaring error in designer perfumes, leaves little room for flankers. Truth Fraiche? Cool Truth? But let’s take Calvin…