Category: Sophia Grojsman

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse, 1993

  (image Kitchen Art 1 by Hay Hermans) Originally named Champagne.  Perfumer Sophia Grojsman. More like Sauternes than Champagne, but I don’t want to start another trademark issue for this fragrance.  Yes, this has similarities to wine, but it seems much more like a sweet dessert wine than anything else.  And, yes, there is a chypre base to Yvresse, but…

S-Perfume 100% Love, 2003

(image source unknown) Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Dark chocolate & berry vomit. No hyperbole, no sneering. I’m an RN and smell a lot of vomit. This smells like dark chocolate, a couple of blueberries and gastric secretions. Is this meant to be experimental/supercilious as in Secretions Magnifiques? It’s part of the S-Perfume condom-covered line. Is it meant to refer to some…

digging (into) vintage: Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 1983

(image source unknown) Perfumer Sophia Grojsman Paris is one of the few perfumes that is 80’s in style, size and exuberance but can still be worn today without irony. It’s a cartoon-like rose with candied violet. A bit shrieky up top, but fortunately by the heartnotes the rose grows citric and astringent, lending a sweet/tart quality to the accord. Paris…

digging (into) vintage: Estée Lauder White Linen, 1978

(image, Mick ricking white linen) I enjoy White Linen for the fact that it is cheapness done well.  Conceptually so downmarket (soap) yet executed so brashly (1 part aldehyde, 1 part laundry detergent musk, one part whatever your notion of a bar of “floral” soap is.)  This is the olfactory equivalent of holding a large tuning fork to your skull,…

digging (into) vintage: Prescriptives Calyx, 1986

Perfumer Sophia Grojsman. Calyx presaged the fruity floral era, and if considered as a fruity floral is among the most beautiful of the genre. But to my mind Calyx occupies a specific place in the evolution of the fruity-floral chypre. If Dior Diorella is a certain distance further down the road from its predecessor Eau Sauvage then Calyx is further still on the…