Category: Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Houbigant Fougère Royale, 2010

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux I think I’ve let expectation get the best of me. I tried the reissued Fougere Royale (original 1882 by Paul Parquet) and was underwhelmed. While the drydown had a pleasant soapy quality, Fougere Royale mostly seemed like a mild lavender fragrance, not the trombones-blasting, coumarin-fest I imagined. Again, my expectation, my problem. Still, in trying to consider Fougere Royale on its…

A FRUITY FLORAL COMPARISON, OR SMALL FISH, BIG POND.

  The fruity floral tends to be a dismal genre.  It’s not intrinsically bad, but producers in the 2000s chased the least common denominators of the hybrid down a well of banality until there were only two controls left on the soundboard, marked ‘sweetness’ and ‘kool-aid’.  Both dials were stripped from sweaty overuse and wound up stuck at volume 11.…

Badgley Mischka Fleurs de Nuit, 2007

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux Follow-ups to fist time successes are notoriously difficult and Badgley Mischka appear to have tried to recreate the win by following a similar strategy to the original Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka.  The original perfume was a syrupy fruitchouli released in 2006.  While the genre may have been generic, the perfume was not.  It dressed up a shady…

Tom Ford Lys Fumé, 2012

    (image, The Smoking Flowers) Perfumers  Shyamala Maisondieu and Rodrigo Flores-Roux The name Lys Fume is only half correct.  The lily is there, the smoke is not.  No complaint, though.  This is a handsome and well composed floriental.  Lily is the centerpiece but other elements that fly in and out of this perfume include other flowers, fruit, plastic, spices, India ink and…

Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit, 2012

Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. The Tom Ford Private Blend Collection sells the the mix-and-match bit.  The perfumes are sold as spectacular on their own, but also amazing in combination.  I think the pairing the Bloomingdales sales associate was telling me about today was Neroli Portofino and Arabian Wood.  Interesting as a cultural notion, I suppose, but really?  Really?!  I thought the…

Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge, 2011

  Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. The jasmine has probably received the solifor treatment more than any flower in perfumery save the rose.  There are plenty of types available and at the full range of price points.  Serge Lutens‘s solifloriental A la Nuit and leather solifor Sarrasins.  Badgely Mischka’s fruity soliflor Fleurs de Nuit (also Rodrigo Flores-Roux).  Mugler’s chemo-soliflor Alien.  Etat Libre’s woody…

Donna Karan Gold, 2006

Perfumers Calice Becker, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Yann Vasnier Gold is an interesting take on the floriental. The opening lily note is so succulent and fresh.  The lily is way out front and Gold seems like it’s going to be a straight-out soliflore.  The freshness lingers into the heart when an amber sweetness replaces the watery feel of the lily.  At this…