Category: Pierre Guillaume

Parfumerie Générale Arabian Horse 3.1, 2016

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. The name fits. From the very opening Arabian Horse creates a setting that evokes equestrian affairs. It smells like farms, barns and steeplechases. The topnotes are strong and urgent, but the stables-and-tack mis-en-scène is just exposition and dramatic build-up. The heartnotes are the reveal. The pacing of the perfume reminds me of the actual experience of approaching…

Parfumerie Générale Cuir Venenum, 2004

Image source unknown Perfumer Pierre Guillaume. Cuir Venenum takes orange blossom down two parallel courses, neither of which is expected. Track # 1.  Similar to iris, underneath orange blossom’s sweetness there is a sweaty quality that gives the flower its dimension and complexity.  Cuir Venenum capitalizes on the blossom’s underbelly by steering it in a yeasty, fermented direction, giving Cuir Venenum…

Parfumerie Générale Cuir d’Iris, 2005

Photo lifted from Gordon Parks. Pierre Guillaume Perfume evokes.  It doesn’t recreate nature and it doesn’t tell stories.  Successful perfumery creates richness and a complexity that allows for many possibilities, for varied experiences among wearers. At the center of Parfumerie Générale’s Cuir d’Iris is an active imbalance, a contest.  From start to finish there’s never a blend or compromise.  The…

Parfumerie Générale Louanges Profanes, 2008

Perfumer  Pierre Guillame When I think about perfume I tend to rely on literary or verbal devices.  By literary I don’t mean particularly lofty in nature, I just mean that we use tricks of the tongue and the pen to get at perfume.  I’ll use visual allusions, fictions of memory, description and tidbits of narrative.  The trouble is that all…

Parfumerie Générale l’Ombre Fauve, 2007

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume This perfume’s richness and sexiness comes from such a basic composition that its novelty is startling.  How can it possibly have taken this long for somebody to put patchouli, amber and musk, components joined since the invention of perfumery, in just this combination? The patchouli, amber and musk, along with incense and spices, fit together so perfectly…

Parfumerie Générale Iris Oriental, 2006

(image Edith Lebeau, Who’s Been Eating My Porridge?) Perfumer Pierre Guillaume Two thoughts: Even though I say that I don’t like gourmand fragrances, some of my favorite classics and contemporaries have at least some edible component, if only an aromatic fruity appeal or an herbal touch. Shalimar, Ambre Sultan, Mitsouko, Tocade, Baghari, Missoni. I know a brilliant ICU RN who captures…

Parfumerie Générale Psychotrope, 2006

  (image, Suddenly Last Summer) Perfumer Pierre Guillaume Psychotrope makes me think of two things. The first is dousing myself with Donna Karan Gold while sucking on a mouthful of Jolly Rancher candies. The second is that creating something disturbing while coloring within the lines is an artistic challenge. 1970s punk was easy. Find the easily offended, offend, then gloat.…