Category: Patricia de Nicolai

Parfums de Nicolai Cuir Cuba Intense, 2014

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai I applaud the PR department of Parfums de Nicolai. Coordinating the release of Cuir Cuba Intense with the US administration’s plans to normalize relations with Cuba?  Brilliant! Cuir Cuba Intense is a tobacco perfume. No surprise, given the locale in the name, but Patricia de Nicolai creates the notes the way a stage magician plays with your…

Parfums de Nicolai Vetyver (date of release unknown)

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai More of a woody citrus than a classic vetiver, de Nicolai’s Vetyver is a refreshing and lovely scent that finds itself miles from the classic heavy, musty, masculine vetiver perfume. The vetiver shows itself with a slightly iodine, salty note that makes the citrus seem preserved. I wear it the way an eau de cologne is intended…

Parfums de Nicoali le Temps d’une Fête, 2006

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai It seems that we all agree on the notes in le Temps d’une Fête, but we characterize the fragrance differently.  Galbanum, hyacinth, narcissus, incense.  I don’t get dark, animalic or mossy feel that others describe.  The florals are utterly spring-crisp, fresh and dewy.  The water-like green florals combine with an equally green resinous aspect (galbanum, mastic)…

Parfums de Nicolai Number One Intense (release date unknown)

PerfumerPatricia de Nicolai Mixed white florals are often either a fusion of the flowery elements (eg. Amouage Gold) or an imagined flower (eg Jean Patou Joy, Estée Lauder’s Beyond Paradise.)  Number One’s trick, though, is to give a bouquet where the individual flowers keep their own identities.  There’s a citrusy opening and a nuanced musky vanilla at the base, but…

Parfums de Nicolai Vie de Chateau Intense, 2008

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai The affectations of country life are always being rewritten.  Keeping up can be distressing even for the exceedingly aspirational.  Patricia de Nicolai lends some ammunition with Vie de Chateau. Vie de Chateau Intense tucks neatly into the citrus chypre genre, with connections to Roudnitska’s Diorella, Eau Sauvage and Moustache as well as its own sibling Weekend a Deauville.  It has that…

Parfums de Nicolai Baladin, 1994

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai Parfums de Nicolai’s masculine fragrances show an appreciation for subtlety and a range of gender that most lines appear not to consider.  New York is dramatic and lush; Vetyver is soft and refined; Patchouli Homme is a blockbuster, but relies on classically feminine notes to hit you.  Baladin doesn’t fall into any typical fragrance genres, but…

Parfums de Nicolai pour Homme, 2003

Perfumer Patricia de Nicolai Masculine fragrances tend to have higher thresholds of propriety yet mystifyingly lower standards of quality.  It’s an odd function of male gender and self-regard.  Most men would rather wear the cheapest smelling iteration of woody/aquatic/woody amber rubbish than a perfectly executed white floral.  That is to say, they would rather smell bad, but like the herd,…