Category: Liz Moores

iris

(image, klick.com) Papillon Artisan Perfumes Angélique. Perfumer Liz Moores, 2013 Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendré. Perfume Julien Rasquinet, 2015 Masque Milano l’Attesa. Perfumer Luca Maffei, 2016 Iris was a key part of the grand ‘orchestral’ perfumes that are now considered dated if not antiquated. Old-school Guerlains like Mitsouko and l’Heure Bleue nested orris root and iris aromachemicals in complex structures. Modern…

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis, 2014

Perfumer Liz Moores The genre of woody/smoky perfumes is having a moment these days. Unfortunately, many of these perfumes start with a disadvantage. A glut of aromachemicals hastily produced to fill the oud-gap that manufacturers are trying to convince us exists has lead to perfumes overdosed with ear-splitting synth-oud bases.  Characteristics of these perfumes include density, a lack of topnotes,…

The non-flanker: Bruno Fazzolari Au Delà Narcisse des Montagnes

The distinction between a flanker and a variation-on-a-theme might seem trivial at a glance, but it is significant. They are both versions of existing perfumes, but their intentions and outcomes are quite different. A flanker is a spin-off of an existing perfume. It is a creature of the marketing department, and though there are varying styles of flanking a perfume,…

Papillon Artisan Perfumes Salome, 2015

(Image source unknown.) Perfumer Liz Moores. Twenty years ago, with a few exceptions, perfume producers didn’t publicly identify the perfumer. Ten years ago some perfumers were becoming rock stars.  The relationship between the perfumer and the audience is changing and the role of the perfumer is being redefined. Social media has been seen as the marketing tool of the independent perfumer. It’s…