Category: Jean Martel

stray thoughts on the fougère, part 1 for Kevin

  However it came about, by the early 70s, masculinity teetered on a tight rope. Men had grown up assuming tht the privileges of their gender were as basic as air or gravity. They were unprepared to find the perks of their gender slipping away and took refuge in the fantasy of the singles bar, the swingers scene, and the leisure…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Jules, 1980

  (image, Martha–the last passenger pigeon. source, Smithsonian Institution.) Perfumer Jean Martel (perfumer of Paco Rabanne pour Homme!) What does “vintage” mean in perfumery?  It doesn’t have the same meaning as wine, where the noun ‘vintage’ refers to a specific year.  We use ‘vintage’ as an adjective to connote quality and a timeframe.  The time implied is somewhere in the…