Category: Jean-Louis Sieuzac

digging (into) vintage: Oscar by Oscar de la Renta, 1977

  (Left: Oscar de la Renta  early 1970s. Right: Yves Saint Laurent 1974) Perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac made some of the most memorable and influential perfumes of the 1970s-1990s. Yves Saint Laurent’s era-defining Opium (1977) smothered the oriental genre in spice, making the previous big-girls like Shalimar and Youth Dew seem quaint.  In the 1980s Sieuzac skipped the match, but piled…

digging (into) vintage: Hermès Bel Ami, 1986

Perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac In retrospect, Hermès Bel Ami marks the midway point between the dry woods of Chanel Antaeus and the gasoline slap of Dior Fahrenheit. The connection is leather, which both the Chanel and the Dior hint at, but the Hermès wraps itself in.  An intermediate species can by definition only be identified after the fact. So, here we…

digging (into) vintage: Christian Dior Dune, 1991

Perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Nejla Barbir Perfumery has ‘evolved’ slowly, charting a plodding course over the years. Chypres and fougères hung on for decades with only minor variations the contemporary gourmand and oud trends show little loss of momentum. But evolution only appears gradual in hindsight. If we were to use the term properly, we’d look for the abrupt changes,…