Category: Jean Guichard

digging (into) vintage: Cacharel Loulou, 1987

(Image Mervyn Gorman autochrome, 1913) Perfumer Jean Guichard. I recently found a vintage bottle of  Cacharel Loulou, a spiced floriental in the vein of Coty l’Origan (1905) and Guerlain l’Heure Bleue (1912).  The three could be seen as variations on a theme, and, though l’Heure Bleue is the most iconic of the three, it wasn’t the first.  It took l’Origan’s style…

digging (into) vintage: Claude Montana Parfum de Peau, 1986

Perfumer Jean Guichard Parfum de Peau is an animalic rose chypre of the 80s school. (Lauder Knowing, Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Ungaro Diva…). It’s not so much a leather scent as a live skin scent. The sweat gives Parfum de Peau a tannic quality. If you focus on just the rose, Parfum de Peau is very similar to other big 80s monster roses and…

digging (into) vintage: Paco Rabanne La Nuit, 1985

Perfumer Jean Guichard To read other people’s impressions of La Nuit, it is a nostalgic scent of the 1970s and 80s. It may have been released in 1985, but it stands with the pillars of the big leathery chypres of the late 60s-70s: Aromatics Elixir, Scherrer de Scherrer, Azurée, Sikkim, Miss Balmain. La Nuit’s spin on the animalic leather chypre…